234 Johnston St, Fitzroy, Vic
Cuisine Modern Australian
WINE LIST Banjo Harris Plane
WINEs ON LIS 450 (20 by the glass)
WINE PRICES $$$
What’s the key to success for a top wine bar list? According to Bar Liberty, it’s ‘a selection of fermented beverages’ served with a decent dose of pizzazz. Expect cocktails that tease and please, real cider and artisanal beers with select digestives and spirits that could make one linger.
It’s a diverse list, not mainstream but not so challenging. Co-owner/sommelier Banjo Harris Plane just wants people to get excited about good booze, which is why he pitches the classics with the rebels, leading with headings such as Energetic White Wines or Macerated Whites. Expect to discover Jura chardonnay Buronfosse Varron followed by Cullen Kevin John or in the Lighter Red section, pinot noir from Ochota Barrels or Best’s Old Vine pinot meunier. Wow producers include Giacomo Conterno, Massolino, Gravner, Graillot and Wendouree, and new takes on ‘Aussie Red Wines’ feature a selection from Barossa-based Tom Shobbrook and Tom Belford in the Yarra Valley.
It’s an egalitarian compilation – not too big, not too small, and each page rips with surprise and personality: there’s even a page dedicated to one of the regulars. Ultimately, the list shines because it offers delicious drinking.