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In 2019 Andrew and Lisa Margan, proprietors of the Hunter Valley’s Margan Wines, took a trip to the Mosel Valley in Germany, with the intention of producing their own riesling (although it wasn’t quite as straight forward as that).

When Andrew was making wine at Tyrrell’s in the ’80s, he became mates with a “young German” – Ado Huesgen VIII – who’d come to Australia for harvest, and to travel. They remained friends and during a visit by the Margans to Germany in 2018, decided they should collaborate on a wine together – an opportunity to “showcase [Ado’s] winemaking skills and hopefully my winemaking skills,” as Andrew puts it.

They handpicked grapes from the suitably steep Trabener Würtzgarten, an 1897-classified Grand Cru vineyard in the middle Mosel, near the twin villages of Traben-Trabarch. The result is the 2019 Heusgen & Margan Trabener Würzgarten Riesling (A$75). It’s a gorgeously textural, vibrant riesling, layered with lychee, pear and lime flavours and typical racy acidity. Excellent.

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