De Salis Wines
Star Cellar Door
0403 956 295
desaliswines.com.au
Things have evolved rapidly for Loretta and Charlie Svenson since they purchased the Lofty Vineyard in 2007 (appropriately named as it sits at 1,050 metres). Their stellar chardonnays and pinot noirs are now joined by a range of sparklings that set a new standard for the Orange region. A funky wild sauvignon and pair of Saint-Émilion-inspired reds add a spoke to the chardonnay and pinot-focused wheel. The Svensons have been joined by their winemaking son Mitch. The purchase of the pioneering Forest Edge vineyard in the neighbouring Towac Valley provided a significant lift to help overcome De Salis’ notorious supply shortage.
Refinements to the cellar door mean that it’s cosy on cold days, but the spectacular view across the valley to Orange remains unchanged and a compelling drawcard – apart from the wines, of course. Tastings are poured into Spiegelau stemware with seating at comfy benches, and cheese to nibble in the shadow of a series of exotic Renaissance art panels. The temptation is to go late in the day to enjoy the setting sun. Resist that urge and climb the mount in the morning to avoid the peak-hour rush. PETER BOURNE
OUTSTANDING WINE: 2012 De Salis Lofty Cuvée, A$65