Matt Koch

In his 20-year career at Rosemount, Matt Koch has made wines from the Hunter, Orange, Mudgee and McLaren Vale. Using this broad base of knowledge he has helped reinvigorate the Rosemount brand with vibrant, award-winning wines.

When Rosemount chief winemaker Matt Koch was awarded the title of Bushing King, first in 2012 alongside Andrew Locke, and again in 2013 with Randall Cummins, he asked for the whole Rosemount team to stand up and be recognised.

Rosemount was again in the spotlight with a suite of wines that were vibrant, flavoursome and focused. The oak had been wound back and the fruit was shining. The evolution caught everyone by surprise and it was Koch driving the change.

Koch credits his colleagues yet again for being a finalist in this year’s Winemaker of the Year awards. Although many have moved on since the decision was made to close Rosemount’s McLaren Vale winery Ryecroft and move production to other existing facilities, Koch states, “Everyone worked together. We were a youngish team but we had a lot of experience with the brand. We’re extremely proud of what we all achieved there”.

Perhaps it’s Koch’s love of rugby that has given him the strong team ethos. Originally from Tamworth in New South Wales, he grew up in a wine-loving family. He went on to study winemaking after experience in liquor retail. He dabbled in brewing before travelling, uncertain of which career direction to take. In 1995 a vintage position became vacant at Ryecroft, which sealed his fate.

After vintage an opportunity arose for Koch to work at Rosemount’s Denman winery in the Hunter Valley. They were exciting times. The Rosemount brand was hot and he had the chance to work with the Show Reserve wines, as well as the regional brands from Orange and Mudgee.

Under the tutorage of Philip Shaw, Koch learnt the art of blending. “Philip’s palate was amazing. I learnt so much from him on the tasting bench,” he recalls. Together they looked for power, finesse and, most importantly, drinkability. Trials would go late into the night to ensure each wine was just right.

After a year he returned Rosemount’s McLaren Vale winery to take up an assistant winemaker role. There was a rapid expansion at the winery with tonnage increasing tenfold.

Despite some turbulence at the time of the Southcorp Rosemount merger in 2001, the synergies and opportunities to do something special with the wines were immense. “We started seeing vineyards in McLaren Vale that we hadn’t seen before. We saw how other wines were made. From a winemaking point of view, it was really exciting,” says Koch.

At the time Australian shiraz and heavier styles of red were in fashion, although the tide quickly turned. When the boom ended, focus shifted away from the Rosemount brand.

Promoted to winemaker, Koch relocated to Denman in NSW in 2004. However, after a few years the company decided to move away from Hunter Valley and Mudgee fruit. “Success is a train everyone wants to jump on,” says Koch. “But when you’re in decline everyone wants to jump off.” Koch stayed. On reflection he concluded that you learn more when you are challenged than in periods of success.

Koch returned to Ryecroft in 2009 as senior winemaker after mentor Charles Whish moved on. The Denman winery closed in 2010 and McLaren Vale became the spiritual homeland for Rosemount.

It was time to re-evaluate. Koch began to refine the Rosemount style, highlighting fruit by pulling back on oak. Maturation policies were reviewed and decisions were made to release wines earlier to capture more primary fruit and freshness.

The planets aligned in 2011. As one of the most challenging seasons on record, Koch drew on his experience from the Hunter, a region accustomed to demanding vintages. Many vineyards were picked earlier than usual and Koch was thrilled by the freshness and intense aromatics he saw. The resulting wines were outstanding. The winery, vineyard, marketing and sales teams worked as one to turn the brand around. They followed up with a strong 2012 vintage and the wines have looked great ever since.

Despite the sale of Ryecroft, McLaren Vale fruit will remain the core of the Rosemount brand. Koch will continue to look at alternative varieties under the Nursery Project, as well as gain a deeper understanding of the geology of the vineyards and the different microclimates of the region. “Things are exciting when you’re learning,” says Koch.

Koch is well-accustomed to the changing cycles in the wine industry. He has shown dedication, resilience and adaptability. His winemaking skills, and the wines of Rosemount, are the better for it.